How to Grow Hardneck Garlic

Part 1: Growing Garlic from Cloves (the classic way)

1. When to Plant

• Best time: October (before the ground freezes).

• Why: Garlic needs to root before winter. If planted too late (e.g. late November), cloves may not root in time:

  • Unrooted cloves often die over winter.

  • If they survive, they may only form a single large “round” instead of a full bulb.

    Rooted cloves easily survive temperatures below –25 °C. Unrooted ones freeze at about –10 °C.

2. Choose the Spot

• Pick a sunny location with good drainage.

• Avoid areas where water pools or soil stays soggy.

3. Prepare the Soil

• Work the soil 6–8 inches deep.

• Add compost or well-aged manure.

• Garlic prefers loose sandy soil; if you have heavy clay, mix in sand and compost.

4. Planting

• Place cloves in loose soil, tip up, about 2–3 inches deep.

• Cover completely with soil (important so heavy rain doesn’t push cloves up).

• Spacing:

  • 6 inches between plants in a row

  • 12 inches between rows

5. Water & Mulch

• Water right after planting, then weekly if there’s no rain before frost.

• Cover beds with 2–3 inches of mulch (straw, hay, leaves). This protects over winter.

6. Spring Care

• As shoots emerge, pull mulch aside to help soil warm faster.

• Replace mulch later to:

  • keep weeds down

  • retain soil moisture

Garlic requires little care: just weed occasionally and water weekly if there’s no rain.

7. Scape Management

• In early summer, garlic produces curly flower stems called scapes.

• For bigger bulbs: cut scapes off when they appear, leaving a 2" stub.

• Do not pull them out (this damages bulbs).

• Bonus: Scapes are edible and delicious!

 Leave scapes on 2–5 plants as “signal stalks” to show when bulbs are nearly ready.

8. Harvest

• Time: July–August.

• Signs: when scapes straighten and point upward, harvest within one week.

• Dig gently (don’t yank). Best on a dry, sunny day.

• Cure bulbs:

  1. Lay in the sun for half a day.

  2. Bundle and hang in a shaded, ventilated spot (garage, shed, barn) for about 1 month.

• If soil is wet, wash bulbs, then dry well before curing.

9. Storing Garlic

• Curing is complete when stems and leaves are dry and brittle.

• Trim stems to 1–2", cut roots, and brush off soil.

• Discard any moldy or soft bulbs.

• Store in a cool (<18 °C), dry, dark place (like a basement).

• Check stock regularly and remove any bad bulbs.

10. What If You Miss Fall Planting?

• Garlic needs a cold dormancy (winter). If you miss fall:

  • Store bulbs in the fridge (top shelf, sealed container) until spring.

  • Once they sprout, plant in pots with soil and keep them in a cold (but frost-free) place like a garage until ground is workable.

  • Transplant outside in spring.

• Spring-planted cloves usually grow into large single “rounds”, which can be replanted in fall for full bulbs the next year.

Part 2: Growing Garlic from Bulbils

1. When to Plant

• Spring: As soon as the soil can be worked.

• Fall option: 4–8 weeks before the ground freezes.

2. Choose Spot & Prepare Soil

• Same as for cloves: good drainage, loose soil, rich in organic matter.

• Work soil 4–6 inches deep.

3. Planting

• Use a board or stick to make 1.5" deep furrows, spaced 6" apart.

• Plant bulbils 2–4 inches apart, depending on size (larger bulbils = more spacing).

• Cover with soil and water moderately.

4. Care

• Once seedlings emerge, mulch with 2" of straw or hay.

• Weed regularly and water weekly if no rain.

5. Harvest & Curing

• Time: August, when plants start yellowing but still have 3–4 green leaves.

• Dig gently, cure in a shaded, ventilated spot (like with cloves).

• Bulbs continue growing while curing.

6. What to Expect

• Year 1: Bulbils grow into single “rounds” (like one big clove).

• Year 2: Large rounds may form full bulbs. Smaller rounds may need another year.

That’s it! Hardneck garlic is hardy, forgiving, and rewarding. With proper timing, you’ll enjoy big, flavorful bulbs every season.