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Growing Tobacco

How to Grow, Harvest & Cure Tobacco

Growing Tobacco from Seed

Tobacco is an annual plant. It must be started from seed each year and takes at least 7 months from seed to maturity.

  • Start indoors: Sow seeds 12–15 weeks before the last spring frost.

    • Example: If you plan to transplant on June 1, start seeds indoors by mid-February.

    • You can expect to harvest in September.

    • Important: A fall frost below –5°C will kill the plant and make it unusable for smoking. If your first frost usually comes in September, start seeds even earlier.

  • Sowing seeds:

    • Tobacco seeds are tiny but grow into large plants.

    • Use soil rich in nitrates, phosphorus, and potassium.

    • Sprinkle seeds on the surface of moist potting soil. Do not cover them with soil.

    • Mist with water, cover with clear plastic, and keep in a warm, sunny spot.

    • Germination takes 6–14 days.

  • Transplanting seedlings:

    • Once seedlings have their first true leaves, transplant them into larger containers.

    • Keep them warm, sunny, and watered regularly.

    • Seedlings are ready for the garden when they are 6+ inches tall and all spring frosts have passed.

    • Plant them in a sunny location, spacing 2 feet apart in rows and 3 feet between rows.

    • Enrich soil with manure and fireplace ash, or use general-purpose fertilizer as directed.


Caring for Tobacco Plants

  • After transplanting: Plants are fragile at first. Leaves may wilt for a few days, which is normal.

    • Transplanting on a cloudy day helps them adapt faster.

    • Water daily during the first week, then once a week or when soil feels dry.

  • Topping and suckering:

    • Before flower clusters open, cut them off (“topping”). Otherwise, the plant diverts energy from leaves to flowers.

    • Break off small side buds (“suckers”) by hand, leaving only one large leaf at each base.

  • Pest control:

    • Do not use chemical insecticides—the plant absorbs them, and you don’t want to smoke that.

    • Avoid soapy water sprays too—they leave a soap taste in the tobacco.

    • Aphids may appear in late July but are usually harmless. If needed, spray them off with a garden hose.

    • Caterpillars are more harmful; they can destroy a leaf in one day. With only 30–40 plants for personal use, hand-picking is the best method. Walk through your garden daily (mornings are best) and collect them into a jar of water.


Harvesting Tobacco

Two common methods:

  1. Leaf-by-leaf harvesting (commercial method):

    • Pick leaves as they turn yellow, starting from the bottom.

    • Harvest continues throughout the season.

    • Requires specialized curing equipment.

  2. Whole-plant harvesting (best for small gardens):

    • When bottom leaves are yellow, cut the entire plant at ground level with a sharp knife or saw.

    • Even after cutting, leaves continue drawing nutrients from the stem during curing.

    • Must be done before the first frost.


Curing & Aging Tobacco

Fresh tobacco leaves are not suitable for smoking. They must be cured and aged to reduce ammonia and harsh chemicals.

  • Natural curing:

    • Hang whole plants upside down in an unheated garage, shed, or barn—a place exposed to changing weather but protected from rain.

    • Curing and aging takes at least 9 months, often longer.

    • The longer the aging, the smoother the smoke. Commercial tobacco is usually aged for 1 year or more.

    • A common saying: “The best tobacco is the one forgotten in the barn for 2 years.” Like wine, tobacco improves with age.

  • Accelerated curing:

    • A faster home method can produce excellent smoking tobacco within the same season.

    • Simple, low-cost, and doesn’t require special equipment.

    • For full instructions, you can order the booklet here: Accelerated Tobacco Curing Method

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